And then they died, everyone dies in Russia ;)

So the time has came to continue the story but, first a quick note. I don't write this blog for anyone in particular, it's mainly for prosperity and so that I can remember what I did in the future. However I am curious if anyone reads this (other than the two people who had told me they do - you know who you are). So if you want, don't be shy, leave a comment at the bottom, regardless I hope this is interesting and/or useful to you :).

Cathedral of St Peter and St Paul

So day 2 in St Petersburg beckoned and began with a visit to the Fortress of St Peter and St Paul which is as old as the city itself and was originally a fortification. First a note as to the name of this post. Our amazing/lovely/crazy tour guide Anna told us many excellent and interesting stories (I wish I could remember them all!). But her stock phrase at the end of most stories was 'and then they died, everyone dies in Russia'. Today's adventures cover more of Imperial Russia and indeed, they did die :) Anyway, back to the story . . . on the way there we also got to experience our first bribe! We had to cross over a wooden bridge that was prohibited for vehicles over a certain weight (we were way over). Solution? Wait til there are no police around and slip the guard a few Roubles, love it!

The bridge: Rules? What rules!

Tombs, including that of
Catherine the Great

Tomb of Nicholas II

Within the fortress is the Cathedral of St Peter and Paul, this is where most of the Russian emperors and empresses are buried, and the place is full of tomb like sarcophagus's (which actually only date to the 19th Century I think). Something interesting I also learned is that Orthodox churches do not have pews or organised seating like you would see in a Catholic/Protestant church, however the Tsar had his own special little seat of course ;). Interestingly, the remains of the last of the Romanov's have recently been moved to the church and now are housed in a chapel just outside the main part of the church. There is also a small exhibition about the Romanov's including pictures of the last family - it was really sad as the children were so young when they were murdered.

Inside the cathedral 

Next it was time to head to the world famous museum, The Hermitage. It is one of the largest museums in the world and was originally founded by Catherine the Great - but in the beginning it was only for the personal use of the family and not opened to the public until nearly 100 years later.

The museum is housed in 6 different buildings and is MASSIVE. I cannot state that enough. It is also full of tourists (and annoying ones at that - St P was full of cruise ship tourists who pushed and pushed! So I started pushing back and being very rude and I found that a successful strategy to get to see what I wanted). The museum has an extensive collection that covers many periods of art and antiquity and we only got to see a tiny bit. You can also tour the apartments of Nicholas II which have been left pretty much as when they last inhabited them almost 100 years ago. So, here are some photos for a taster of what it was like, you weren't technically supposed to take photos without permission, but it's Russia baby and I learned in a way anything goes:

Hall containing portraits of famous army generals from the war with Napolean

One of the 2 Da Vinci Madonna's on display

The Raphael Loggias - an exact copy of a gallery from the Vatican. So perfect that when the original was destroyed they came and copied this one!

Apartments of Nicholas II and his family

After the Hermitage we had some free time to explore. First we had lunch - found a small Russian chicken kebab place where we had to practice our communication skills, thankfully 'kebab' and 'coke' seem to translate into any language ;). Next we headed to the Museum of Anthropology, otherwise known as 'the museum of the deformed babies'. The museum houses lots of little exhibitions with displays about mankinds development (and they are clearly quite old) and all the labels are in Russian, except when you get to one gallery. Yes, it is a gallery full of deformed, pickled babies (or babies body parts and the odd animal too). The fact that this was the only gallery with English labels says a lot ;). It was pretty gross and also really sad - there were a lot of babies who seemed fine apart from a hare lip. Funny how something quite easily fixed now would have been so devastating in the past. Again, you weren't supposed to take pictures but my friend managed to sneak a few and I stole this from her:

You've seen one, you've seen them all.

That night we had a (baddddd) included dinner at the hotel, where they gave us sweet potato and chilli flavoured vodka. Yeah, thanks for that! Then most of headed to the ballet to see Swan Lake. I'll be honest, I'm not a ballet fan, and for the vast majority of the time I had no idea what was going on. But I can say I have done it now! We were not at the best ballet either (you could tell - they were out of sync quite a lot!), just a tourist one full of cruise ship cronies. The 'proper' ballet would have cost twice as much, but to be honest I would have paid it was it cost 60 Euro for the not so great one. But, more champanski was on hand so that helps (and for those who care/know they did the 'happy' ending, so in this case, no one did die).

That evening some of us took the chance to see more of St Petersburg at night and watch the bridges come up (fueled by vodka and champanski of course!). It was something of a 'ghost tour' too - we saw the places of many deaths, including where Rasputin was killed! We then headed onto the right side of the river and watched the beautifully lit up bridges rise in sequence. St Petersburg is a beautiful and incredibly romantic city which I think rivals the best anywhere has to offer, I hope I get to go back and watch those bridges rise again ;).

Where Rasputin was murdered

The next morning was our last in the city, but I think I will leave that for next time . . .til then.

Санкт-Петербург - Part 1 - a champanski haze!

It was finally time to leave the relative familiarity of Scandinavia and head into the unknown territory that is Russia. First instructions of the day were to buy lots of water to brush our teeth with etc as the tap water in Russia can be a bit iffy. Some people took that to the extreme and when we made out final stop in Finland I think we had enough water to maintain a small town stacked under the bus! 

So we then headed to the border control and were given a slew of instructions - no smiling, certainly no laughing, turn off your phones, hide your valuables . . . scary stuff. The Russians take their border seriously! Thankfully we had a female, blonde bus driver who spoke Russian (yeah we lucked out there) who managed to get us through the border in record time (they wanted to take all out bags off the bus and search them but she managed to get us out of that one). And then we were in!

First Russian flag!

Straight away the roads deteriorated and it began to look like, well, you would expect Russia to look! The countryside was mainly trees and reminded me of the backdrop or a wartime move like Defiance or Inglorious Basterds. We stopped briefly in the little town of Vygborg which has changed hands from the Finnish to the Russians numerous times in it's history and has in consequence a slightly European air compared to other Russian cities. Then back on the bus and we headed into beautiful St Petersburg!

So first, a history lesson. St Petersburg was founded in 1703 by the Russian Tsar Peter the Great. It was not in fact named after him but after his favourite saint. Peter the Great was very keen to modernise Russia and he saw the way to do this was to become more western, more European. As such he founded the city of St Petersburg and enlisted architects to build a European style city and this eventually became the capital of Russia and remained so pretty much until the fall of the Tsars with the death of Nicholas III in 1917. The city has an incredible history of decadence and excess with palatial homes built for the rich all over the city (they actually call them 'palaces' but they did not usually house royalty). Then on the other hand there is the sad history of the city, including the 2 year siege during world war two in which more than a million people died. Put plainly, there's a whole load of history here, my kind of place!

We began our visit by checking into our hotel, the originally named 'Hotel St Petersburg' a fabulously retro hotel which looked like it hadn't been decorated for a good 30 years (I'm serious). I tried not to think too much about the peeling wall paper, aged bedspreads and cabin style beds (they were not proper beds, sort of wooden frames attached to the wall, argh wish I had taken photos!). Interesting fact about Russian hotels - they take your passport off you! Yay, so in a country where there is every possibility you may be stopped and asked for ID by the police you are handed a piece of card with your name on it and the hotel name. I guess it is one of those things that is a hangover from communism. I actually expected more things to a bit odd like this but other and having to pay for toilets (which we had to do a fair bit in Scandi), but it really wasn't far removed from any other European city.

Today we also met out local guide, Anna. Okay, Anna was insane and an alcoholic. When we first met her she had been propping up the bar already for a few hours with her signature bloody mary drink and can I say she is an awesome drunk! Anna grew up under communism but became and adult just as it was ending so had a fascinating insight into how things were to live under that regime. One story that springs to mind was families would sometimes wait years to buy a simple piece of furniture, you would join a list and have to wait until you got to the top. Unless of course you knew someone, the black market thrives in a communist economy.

That evening Anna took us on a city tour, showing us some of the sights and giving us an orientation of the city. She also introduced us to our favourite Russian word - champanski!! This is just what the Russians call sparking wine of any kind, not a special drink, but the Russians do drink it with vodka in it. With that, we stopped in one of St Petersburg's beautiful squares and drank champange and vodka out of plastic cups - which was way more fun than it sounds! (On a side note I also learned that adding '-ski' to a word is a way of making a noun into an adjective, so now you know).

From this we headed to an optional dinner in a local restaurant. Well local-ish, as was the way with Contiki it was more of a tourist place and they served up fairly gross looking Beef Stroganof, which I don't like at the best of times. But we also got our favourite champanski and vodka, which I seemed to get the most of on our table, so it was a very merry night in St P!!

The next day we had an early start to get to the Peterhof Palace and Gardens to beat the tourist rush (which was a good thing as as were were leaving it was heaving). Peterhof is called the Russian Versailles due to it's extensive gardens and opulent style. The weather was a but drizzly but that didn't dampen our spirits as we explored the many fountains and gardens; let's just say the Tsars were not afraid of gold leaf. It was one of many occasions in this city where the sheer wealth involved in creating (and maintaining) something blew us away.

The next stop on this whirlwind of a day was to be the memorial to the siege of Leningrad (as St Petersburg was known during the communist days). The monument is built on what I can only describe as a large roundabout which a column and statues rising from the middle and you go underneath and underground to a museum of sorts where there is a video and a selection of artifacts documenting the lives of people during the siege. It's incredibly sad and amazing to believe that anyone actually survived. During the siege the average ration was 200g of bread per person, per day. This was for people who were doing hard physical labour, and not forgetting the harsh Russian winter. In the winter, so many people would die bodies had to be left to freeze on the streets as the ground was so hard they could not dig enough graves to bury them.

Not the best photo!

Next we hopped on a canal boat tour of the city - St Petersburg was built around a river called the 'Neva' and canals were created for access across the city so it has a Venice-like feel (okay I've never been to Venice but is is what I would expect Venice to feel like!). As a consequence St Petersburg is also a city of bridges and every night in the summer the bridges all rise to let shipping traffic through (so you need to make sure you are on the right side of the river or it's an expensive taxi ride the long way home!). And it was time for more Champanski! The boat was a nice way to see the city and we also saw our first wedding of the trip - Russian couples flock to the city to get married in the summer because it is so beautiful.

We followed the boat tour for a trip to a souvenir shop that sold Faberge eggs. Faberge was a jewellery company that was commissioned by Nicholas III to create an Easter egg for the Tsarina, the result was so successful they were to create a whole series of eggs (until the fall of the Tsars of course) some of which we were lucky enough to see later in the trip. They are generally enamelled, jewelled and often contain little trinkets hidden inside such as miniature coaches and boats. The shop continued the champanski theme (and vodka and some random liqueur made of prunes or something like that!). I guess they think getting you drunk makes you buy and they were probably right. We were also introduced the the wonderful world of Matryoshka dolls, the traditional stacking dolls that come in every possible size and permutation you could think of.

But the day wasn't over! Next we headed to the Russian folklore show 'Feel Yourself Russian'. Cue cassock dancing, traditional singing and generally fun times. And you guessed it more champanski! (we were beginning to get used to this). I thought that this would have been dull but the dancing and singing and costumes were pretty amazing and gave a glimpse into Russian culture from the pre-communist days.

So the day was over but still so much to see and do, let's leave it there for now and continue another day ;)

Whatever floats your boat!

Leaving Stockholm turned into a fun little jaunt, it just so happened to be gay pride festival whilst we were there and it also happened to be the day and time of a gigantic parade! We tried 2 different ways of getting around it but we were always thwarted. We ended up literally having to push the bus right through the parade (with a little help from the Swedish police) . . .as we had a ferry to catch!


Yes, we were about to board, the love boat. The love boat (as we called it) is a ferry that travels from Stockholm to the Finnish capital Helsinki. 


The boat was a revelation - it was a proper cruise ship - shops, bars restaurant, casino and all! We boarded mid afternoon and most of us headed straight for a nap - the late night in Stockholm was catching up with us! The cabins were in the bowels of the ship (only the best for Contiki - not!) and the top bunks had pull down beds which when you moved made the bed in the next room rock, nice!


That evening we headed for the buffet restaurant where we had an 'all you can eat' smorgasbord. Very Scandinavian (obviously), lots of cold meats and sea food and on tap beer and wine, yeah! Later we hit the 'nightclub' on board where we mingled with the locals and danced the night away. Of course staying up til late was clever of us . . . especially when my roommate freaked out in the morning and woke us up 2 HOURS early as she thought we were late, oops . . .

So . . .we arrived in Helsinki and I felt sooooo tired (had about 4 hours sleep due to aforementioned incident!). We first headed to a monument to the famous (apparently) Finnish composer Jean Sibelius, it looks like a load of organ pipes stuck together, okay that's a bad description, see photo. No idea who he is but it's kind of a cool thing to see.

We were then dropped of and given the rest of the day free, yay . . . Okay no offense but after the joys of Stockholm and Oslo Helsinki was not the most exciting place, also it was a Sunday, traditional day of nothingness across the world. Can I reiterate I was REALLY TIRED, but being a trooper I resisted the offer of an early ride back to the hotel and tried to explore Helsinki. First we headed to Suomenlinna, which is an island fortress. You have to take a boat across and once there there is a museum and other buildings you can look around, it's really big. Next we headed back into the city and checked out the two cathedrals, but they were closed :( To compound my annoyance my bank card also decided to stop working, for some reason Finland does not like Lloyds TSB. Of course I was off to Russia and needed Roubles and needed dollars to buy a visa for Belarus (more on that later) so I was in desperate need of access to cash so I had the pleasure of using my credit card to withdraw money and pay a £30 fee. Ouch.

Next we tried to head back to the hotel but unbeknownst to us they had changed the pick up time so we had to wait an hour! Did I say I was tired already? So when we got back I barely had time to change clothes before I had to go to a meeting for out journey into Russia - filling out entry forms and getting our hotel list etc. Finally at about 9pm (long day!) we were able to go and grab some dinner, and yes they got my order wrong!

So Finland and I didn't have the best of first impressions, if someone can ever convince me to go back they can try and change my mind. But, onwards and upwards. Next morning it was time to say goodbye to lots of friends who had been with us since day one and head towards the slightly scary experience of the Russian border.

Stockholm Syndrome!

Famous baby statue!

After a nice little airport delay (!) we landed back in the capital Oslo. In the Contiki spirit of trying to fit as much as possible in, with varying degrees of success, we headed straight to the famous Frogner Park. Okay, apparently it's famous but I had never heard of it. Anyway. It's primarily well known because Vigeland Sculpture Park is located within it - the sculpture park consists of bridges, fountains and statues all to do with 'the human condition'. Some of the sculptures are a little, saucy shall I say? Or at least open to interpretation. 

With the rest of the day to explore Oslo we headed to the town hall to see where the Nobel peace prize is given out. The town hall is a really unique building, from the outside it looks rather utilitarian and stark but inside it is full of the most creative and unusual artwork. The walls are covered in paintings (on the actual walls, not in frames) of Norwegian folklore and history -worth a visit. Next headed to the National Gallery. Not a massive art gallery fan if I'm honest but couldn't turn down a chance to see Munch's 'The Scream'. So I went! Was a nice gallery, some interesting paintings, a few by Van Gogh, some old icons and such like. 


We rounded the day off with a walk along the beautiful riverfront and some dinner. The riverside had some amazing bars - I only wish we had of had the energy to come and enjoy the nightlife! I'd say that's a fair reason to pencil in another visit to the city again sometime soon though :).


The next day - Stockholm baby!! We headed early into Sweden - got excited when we saw Ikea and tried out some Swedish fast food at 'Max' - where they have surprisingly healthy options including a no carb burger wrapped in a lettuce leaf! 


We were actually staying in a hotel - good in theory but we were a fair old distance from the city centre! The stay did not start well when another room mix up resulted in another room change (including a 10 minute stop in a broken lift as we went to sort things out). That evening we headed into the city for a walkabout dinner - we ended up going to this food court kind of place where we had a massive plate of chinese food for about £12 - which is cheap for Sweden! But it was awesome, wish I'd took a photo! Oh and we also saw the place where the bank used to be where people were held hostage and the term 'Stockholm Syndrome' came from. I think it's a McDonalds now!

We then headed for a drink in a pub and I learned to ask the price of a drink. I paid the princely sum of £14 for a cherry flavoured beer - ouch. The alcohol taxes in Scandinavia are a killer! Then it was home for a few 'room drinks' and ready to explore the city the next day.


The following morning we took the coach again into the city and most people went for a tour of the town hall - this one is where the rest of the Nobel prizes are given out. I'd been told it was a bit dull so me and Rachel headed for a walk around the old part of the city - this was actually a great idea as there was hardly anyone about and you could get a real feel for the history of the place (note the city is not actually that old like most Scandinavian cities -well not compared with places in the UK and the rest of Europe I mean!).

Later that morning we watched the changing of the guard at the royal palace - it was baking hot and there was a huge crowd and it lasted 30 MINUTES! Really. It was fairly cool though - lots of shiny hats and swords and horses and such like. They really do like the pomp and spectacle of their royal families in Scandinavia.








Next we headed over to a Museum called Skansen on an Island just a bit east of the main part of the city. Skansen is an open air museum -  a bit similar to Beamish for those of you who have been there! There are old buildings from all over the country that have been recreated - including a little town area. It is also part zoo and has things like bears, although it was really hot so most of the animals were sensibly hiding away. I will say they looked well looked after and had plenty of space and appropriate environments. From there we headed to the Vasa museum. Vasa was actually a warship built for one of the kings of Sweden for a war against Poland. The ship was also meant to show how powerful Sweden was. It failed miserably. On it's maiden voyage the ship sailed less then one nautical mile before it ceremoniously fell onto it's side and sank. The ship had in fact been built far to tall and with not enough ballast to keep it afloat. This combined with an unfortunately windy day and and the fact the lower gunports were open in order to give a ceremonial salute caused water to flood into the ship and it to sink to the bottom of the harbour. Many people died - not least because families of the crew were allowed on board for the journey out of the harbour and also most people could not swim. The mast was so tall it actually remained sticking out of the water and had to be cut down. The ship was salvaged in the 1960's and restored and the museum now houses the ship including reconstructions of some areas - well worth a visit, it's amazingly huge and covered in the beautiful detailed carvings of the time.

That night we had dinner in the hotel and met some of the 'newbies'. The tour was a modular one where some people leave halfway and then more join, we had to points this happened - Stockholm and Helsinki. The new people were mostly a little jetlagged and decided not to join us for our jaunt to enjoy the Stockholm nightlife and the beautiful people of Stockholm.


What they say about Scandinavia is very true - the people are gorgeous. Stunning. Beautiful. Now that said I think you get gorgeous girls everywhere but so many gorgeous guys is hard to get used to! In Stockholm the men were very 'metrosexual' - all pastel colours and tailored shorts. Everywhere also has 'face police' - you need to look the part to get in. Our TM arranged in advance that we would all get into one bar (which had a cheap happy hour - yay) to avoid any embarrassing situations . . .

It was great to get out and enjoy some nightlife in a city - first time we had really done it this tour. There were enough of us to enjoy that 'group outing' feeling and there was a nice outdoor area and dancy bit inside (I really wish I could remember the name!). As with all good things they start to go a bit awry . . . some people there were very drunk (and quite early), my feet gave in on me - I didn't want to leave but I HAD too, one of my friends got thrown out for no reason. Ah, fun times. Most people decided on public transport home but my crippled feet rebelled and I convinced a couple of people to take a (dodgy) taxi home -and we actually beat home the group who took the train 45 minutes before us! But guys - never take a dodgy taxi alone, we had strength in numbers :)


The next day, feeling slightly worse for wear, we headed back into the city for some more free time before our cruise to Helsinki. The weather had taken a turn for the worst so we took the time to get our final few souvenirs and we visited the royal apartments in the palace. All I can say is THEY NEVER END!!! Once you have seen one highly decorated slightly pointless room you have seen them all, it took about 45 minutes to walk through with very little stopping. Oh, we also looked at the crown jewels but the collection is about 1/10 of that in London. Oh I shouldn't compare I know :)


So that was Stockholm - awesome city, well recommended! Next we were going to take the 'Love Boat' to Helsinki and start the second part of our tour, but more on that next time.

71 degrees north

We departed Voss ready for a long drive the the capital, Oslo. Our drive was another scenic one (there really wasn't any that weren't on this part of the trip). One interesting, if sad point of the day was when we drove past Utoeya island. This was the place where the the terrorist Anders Behring Breivik shot dead 69 young people and injured about the same number again. We could see the island clearly as we passed, it's not that far from the mainland. At the edge of the water there was a large gathering of Norwegians paying their respects and laying flowers and candles. Very sad.


On our way into the city we stopped at the Oslo ski jump Holmenkollbakken, it's a very historic place and they have been throwing themselves down this hill for over a century. You can pay to go up a lift to look down the jump but I decided to walk to the other end of the run -consensus was this was actually a better shot. Judge for yourself:

Much respect to ski jumpers. I think they are crazy.

That night we stayed in a hostel just outside of Oslo. The rooms were tiny and it was really hot. It was however an early night (well for most of us!) as the next day was an early morning flight up to the far northern town of Alta.

Our flight was at 7.00 am the next morning so bright eyed and bushy tailed we headed to the airport. It took about 2 hours to get to Alta and once there we headed to see the famous rock carvings there. The oldest rock art is around 6000 years old and there are around 5000 different images showing hunter gatherers and fishermen. Pretty cool, one of those moments when you'd like to get a time machine and go back and find out who made these and why.

It took us another 3 hours to drive to Honningsvag which was to be our base for the next two days. Valuable time to catch up on a little sleep! When we arrived we checked into our hostel and had some free time before dinner. 

Honningsvag is a weird, weird place. For most of the year it is too cold to be of interest to anyone but those who need to be there. The big industries are fishing and tourism. There is a rather unattractive fish processing plant (right next to our hostel!) and large racks on the waterside for drying fish - dried fish is a local specialty. Some people tried it but yeah you guessed it I decided a little mystery is not a bad thing. In the summer cruise ships dock at the port so people can visit Nordkapp and see the midnight sun. Other than that there is not much else! To get into the town centre from our hostel you have to walk around a bay-on that walk you basically don't see anyone. The odd car maybe. There were shops along the road as we walked but most were shut down and even in the town centre there was little sign of life. It was very creepy - the sort of place where in a horror movie you would be screaming at the people to run!

That night we drove to Nordkapp -North Cape. It models itself as mainland Europe's most northern point, this is of course disputed and by any definition it is not technically correct! But it is an amazing point - based on a cliff overlooking the Barents sea. There is a visitors centre there where you can watch a panoramic movie showing Nordkapp through the seasons, post a postcard from the northernmost post office and there is a bar where you can toast the midnight sun. We spent ages watching for the sun to go down but as it happened the sun clouded over as the sun dipped and is didn't in fact go under the horizon at all. Standing in daylight at midnight is a truely strange and unusual experience.

The following day most people went king crab fishing but I took the chance to enjoy a long overdue lie in. Travelling at Contiki pace is tiring and in order to stay sane it is required to remove yourself from the situation at least once or twice! That afternoon I met the others to go quadbiking in the hills overlooking the city. I made the error or agreeing to drive the bike back down. Note - this is very hard -going up is easier! Also the feeling of driving at 60 miles an hour on a main road with only a helmet to protect you is slightly scary, but I've done it now. Another tick on the list!

Next we headed to the Ice Bar in Honningsvag. So you hear ice bar and you think 'alcohol'! well no. This ice bar is teetotal but you do get to try some non alcoholic liqueur type things -including one in a glass made of ice! The neat thing about this bar is it is all made of 'real' ice. The ice is harvested every winter and a new ice bar is created and carved each year -including an actual bar and an igloo. We all had to wear what I can only describe as capes made out of duvets - very flattering- but it was still very cold, and a damp cold. I could only stand it in their for about 20 minutes then I had to escape into the 'warm' - how strange to say that! Afterwards we all threw our 'ice' glasses into the water outside the bar and made a wish, apparently it is a tradition. I'm still waiting for mine to come through. We had a quiet evening (an early flight again beckoned) and most people tried reindeer stew, but I did not want to eat Rudolph . . . 

Next things start to get more exciting - back to Oslo and then to the beautiful people of Stockholm, and then onwards to the great expanse that is Russia. Til next time :)

Fjords, ferries and Olympic fun!

Next stop was a brief visit to the Swedish city of Gothenburg. Not a huge amount to say about it, just a normal city, lots of bridges and canals. Aparently it is the food capital  of Sweden and there were a lot of restaurants. Myself and a couple of the girls ended up having a pretty good dinner there washed down with Swedish cider :) That night was a hostel stay way out of the city (a familiar thread on this trip). So fuelled by cheap German vodka we had ourselves a little kitchen party- not so clever when early mornings beckon!

Finally we crossed the border into Norway where we would be spending more than a week. Our first stop over was to be the small town of Gjovik and on the way we stopped at the Olympic town of Lillehammer. It's a really, cute little place - fairly touristy but a recommended visit if you have the time! Lillehammer is also famous due to it's connections with the Mossad killing of an innocent man who they believed was part of Black September - the group who kidnapped the German Olympic team in 72 which eventually led to them being killed in a botched rescue operation. Mossad actually killed a Moroccan waiter there. They were arrested but all were pardoned within a few years. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lillehammer_affair

We then drove to Gjovic and had a few hiccups - first we went to the wrong hotel (!) and then the hotel we went to tried to make 4 of us sleep in a room designed for 2 . . . yeah not going to happen. So once again I had to move, but got a room alone this time :) That night we headed out for some drinks and to enjoy the lovely light evenings.

Getting ready to go!

The following morning we headed back to Lillehammer to take the chance to go down the Olympic bobsled track. We split into teams - I was on team UK of course and strapped ourselves into a rickety wheeled bobsled (what they use to train when it's not snowing). We had a professional driver and we all had to get very 'up close and personal' - those things are small! We then got a push start and off we went. It was not as scary as I thought it would be - not as bad as some roller coasters. There are a few turns where you are literally on the wall which is a bit unnerving. Unfortunately team UK didn't win but we placed respectably! Something else to tick of my list!

The crazy road

Onwards we went, including a little stop in a town called Lom which has one of the oldest wooden churches in Norway and an excellent bakery - try their cinnamon rolls if you go - yum! The drive to our next stop was insane. As you may know norway is the land of Fjords and mountains and in order to get to our destination we had to drive over a mountain - on a scary windy road designed for cars not 50 seater coaches and then take a ferry across one of 

Geiranger Fjord

the most beautiful fjords Geiranger (pronounced gay-ranger, the 
aussies found this hilarious as they call readheads 'rangers' you can work the rest out). The mountain road we took as a unique experience and out driver Baja did an excellent job of getting us down in one piece. Next we got on the ferry across the fjord, very beautiful, lots of waterfalls etc.


We spent the night in the little town of Hellesvylt - had a really awful dinner which Rachel and I supplemented with pizza and had a pub quiz (my team won :) ). All in all not a bad day.

Our drive the next day was a pretty one. We had lunch at a glacier - Boyabreen. Glaciers are basically ancient blocks of ice - they are responsible for carving the mountains and fjords of Norway during the ice age. You can tell if it is a glacier as glaciers have a blue tinge to them. We also drove through Europes longest road tunnel - yay? It was 26km long and took us nearly half an hour to drive through. I'm not sure how our driver did it - I was alseep by the end. Tunnel driving is tough -in the on every 6 km there is a opened up section bathes in blue light. Apparently it makes the driver more alert! Our journey today also included a ferry across Songnefjord which is one of the biggest at over 200km long - and of course stunningly beautiful.


Next day we headed to Voss which is the 'activity' centre of Norway. Both summer and winter sports are huge business here and the town produces a disproportionately large number of winter Olympic athletes. The town is based near a lake and our hostel was based on the banks of the lake. We had dinner in the hostel (note - in Norway fish is not seafood. seriously). and then headed into town to a bar owned by our driver's friends. We spend a fun if slightly messy evening getting to know random norwegians and singing karaoke. Good times!


The next day most people headed to whitewater rafting, being an awful swimmer I decided I would be a liability and headed into the city of Bergen with a few others. The train journey afforded us an opportunity to sleep and when we arrived the weather was gorgeous. We spend some time exploring the town and the famous fish market where the others tried smoked whale. Apparently is has a strong aftertaste but I decided some things are best unknown. 

Translations - got any shrimp mate?

Back in Voss our group had a barbeque on the lakeside. Very funny watching aussies and kiwis trying to barbeque on a disposable grill. The don't use charcoal to barbeque at home and they certainly don't have disposables. They resembled a bunch of native americans trying to send smoke signals to their village across the lake (they put cooking oil on it!!!).




So our Norwegian fjord adventure came to an end, next we hit the capital, Oslo and the (allegedly) northernmost point in Europe, until next time :)