Ich Bin Ein Berliner

As with everything, all good things must come to an end. As morning dawned on the last day of the tour we said goodbye to our friends who would be ending the tour in Warsaw and boarded the bus for the last time and a lovely 10 hour bus journey to the German capital Berlin. The bus was only half full so there was ample opportunity to stretch out and relax and catch up on some well needed zz's. By this point I was pretty sick with Contiki flu so every minute of sleep was needed!

We arrived in Berlin late afternoon and were dropped off at Berlin Plus hostel. This is where I had stayed before the tour so it made sense to stay again. Somehow I had lucked out and got a room by myself even though I had paid for a quad. I was thankful that I wouldn't have to stifle my coughs! That night some of us who were staying met up for some dinner and drinks in the hotel bar. A few people were heading to a club - I really wanted to go but I being so ill I decided it wasn't wise. Instead myself and few others took the subway into the city to visit Berlin Fernsehturm - also known as the 'TV Tower'. It is the tallest structure in Germany and has great views of the city. It was originally built by the Soviet 'side' of Berlin as a kind of symbol of power. It was kinda cool, had a glass of champagne and all that. But I've been up quite a few of these things now and nothing beats the CN tower or the Empire State :).

That night I tried to get a good nights sleep in preparation for a busy day of sightseeing. I was surprised to be woken at 6am by someone coming into my room. I was confused initially and though it was a late arriving roommate but then I realised it was a drunken German man. He was really weird and sat on the other bed and tried to hug me. Thank God I managed to make him leave, didn't feel like screaming the house down at 6am. I spoke the managers and they said I hadn't closed the door properly. BUT I've stayed in hostels and hotels around the world and I always check the door (and it was double locked) and the same thing happened to other people that night - therefore they have faulty locks. So basically if you stay at Hostel Plus Berlin be careful!

Anyway, back to sightseeing. That day I decided to take the opportunity to visit a concentration camp. I had never heard of Sachsenhausen before but it turns out it is only a 30 minute train ride out of the city and there was an organisation offering walking tours. So I met up with a few other people at the meeting point and headed there.

To get there you take a train to a place called Oranienburg and then it's about a 15 minute walk through some houses and then you are at the gates. Very odd - the houses used to be for the SS offices and their families, imagine living so close to all that suffering.

Saschenhausen was actually a really important camp and was where all SS officers came to be trained. Ironically on the site now there is a police training centre. 

Lot's when on at this place. The camp was in many ways a test camp, to try things out before rolling them out to the others. It's main function was not as an extermination camp but there were mass murders and crematoria were built - the ruins of which remain. It was also a place where many medical experiments were carried out and those buildings still stand. This is also the camp where the famous Nazi counterfeiting operation took place. The Nazi's had a plan to destabilize the pound and dollar by counterfeiting large amounts of notes and flooding the countries with them. They used the best Jewish artists and printers and were somewhat successful in producing the notes but never finished the plan. There is a movie called 'The Counterfeiters'  about it which is a good watch. This is also a track for testing shoes where inmates where forced to walk for days without a break whilst carrying heavy loads and whipped or shot if they fell - one of those manufacturers is what is now Addidas. One other interesting fact is that this camp is one of the few where the sign Arbeit macht frei can still be seen today.

Shoe testing track

Remains of the crematoria

After the war the Soviets preserved the camp as a reminder of what had happened and built monuments in memory of those who died. Once Germany was reunified there was also a museum opened on the site and it is still under renovation and there are many buildings, including those used by the SS officers, which will hopefully be opened eventually.

After our visit we took the train back into the city. It was late afternoon but we were still determined to see as much as we could.

We decided to head to the famous checkpoint Charlie first and see where Berlin was once split. We got to see some guys dressed up in costume and had a HUGE yummy (if very hot) Bratwurst. Next we walked to the Topography of Terror which is a museum about terrorism and houses a reconstruction of the Berlin wall. Quite a solemn place actually and quiet for being in the city. It is built on the site that housed the headquarters of the Gestapo and the SS, which I find quite apt.

Next stop was the Iconic Brandenburg gate - oh what events that structure has seen! Originally built in the 18th century, it is amazing that is has survived. The gate is now in the middle of an open square type area which there were lots of things going on whilst we were there. 

Near to the gate is the Holocaust memorial which is a serious of concrete blocks of differing sizes built in straight lines. It is designed to give you the feeling of lost and hopelessness that Jewish people felt during the holocaust. It works, you feel very alone walking around there even when surrounded by people.

Lastly we visited the Reichstag. As a history student I had read so much about events in and around this building that to see it was strange - how could such a small place have such a big history? We wanted to go inside but recently the rules have changed and you need to be approved - thanks terrorist. That said, it is still impressive from the outside. I bought some postcards of what it looked like at the end of the war and it is truly amazing that the structure still stands today.

Well, that was Berlin in 24 hours. Not too shabby for a sick girl :) I said my final goodbyes to my last Contiki friends and headed back for my last night in the hostel. Thankfully no visitors this time. The next morning I headed to the airport and back home to normality.

Next step....... AUSTRALIA! Summer 2012 (okay winter in your hemisphere!) - watch out Aussies you won't know what's hit you :D.

PS - note to this posts name. In Berlin a 'Berliner' is a kind of doughnut. So when President Kennedy famously said 'Ich bin ein Berliner' they found it very funny :)

Eastern Block Party - Belarus and Poland

So we leave Moscow on another sunny morning (got pretty lucky with our weather in Russia!) for an anticipated long drive to our next country, Belarus.


A fairly uneventful drive was punctuated by the dodgiest lunch stop so far. We had to stop a 'hotel' (that's being generous) as there was no where else to stop on out drive - Russia needs to work on service stations!. Now apparently Contiki actually used to do a night stop there but ended that after complaints about the, shall we say, ladies of the night? Turns out the hotel is frequented by truckers and well truckers need company . . .


We had lunch (more chicken kiev - yay . . .) in a weird dining room with a stage. The walls were painted with strange pictures of cowboy types dancing and women. I wonder what goes on on that stage! Next we made a short drive to the border where we got to wait in large queues, get stared at by border guards, wait ages for them to do god-knows-what with our passports until we were finally free to enter the amazing BELARUS!!


Okay, I'll be honest. Prior to this trip my only knowledge of Minsk was that Phoebe's boyfriend went to live there. Driving into Minsk was a bit odd. I mean, I really felt like I was in Eastern Europe, which is hard to quanitfy but imagine very soviet era, Eurovision-esque, posters showing happy little Belarussians. Minsk the city was actually designed as a model city by the Soviets after WW2 which is why it seem modern with wide open streets and imposing buildings.

Soviet era statues in Minsk

We had our hotel changed at the last minute but apparently this was good as we were closer to the town (not that I planned on going a-wander). So everything in Belarus was a bit dodgy. Starters the hotel - I'll get to the worst later but lets say it has a certain clientele who are looking for a certain something at 1am . . .

When we arrived we went to our rooms, more odd spaces with more crazy built in wooden beds (these were everywhere - really wish I had taken photos!) but it was only for one night so I got refreshed and headed downstairs to change the last of my Russian cash in to Belarussian roubles. We were only spending the night but I had about £10-15 worth left so I figured I spend it on a few drinks and then buy some items from the supermarket to use up the rest. Now firstly, the exchange rate is crazy. Belarussian money is worth nothing, todays exchange rate to the £ is12857.52440! So my few Russian notes turned into a pile of Belarussian ones. My biggest note was 20000 (but they go up to 5MILLION!).

Money money money

So I took this huge pile of notes to the next door supermarket to buy a few things (I knew dinner would be awful - it was) and it was so cheap it was impossible to spend the money and when I did I was handed back an even bigger pile of smaller notes! It would be laughable if it wasn't the way people had to live. Our city guide told up everyone is paid in US$ and all big purchases (cars, homes) are in US$ too as the currency is unstable. Not that they earn much anyway, but more on that later.

After our strange dinner, which began with some odd kind of terrine, we met with our local guide who was going to give us a short walking tour of Minsk (I nearly bailed as I was feeling iffy but I'm glad I manned up and went - some girls just went to bed. So you go all the way to Minsk and sleep without seeing any of it??).

The city is quite beautiful, it was mostly destroyed during World War II and the Soviets rebuilt it as a modern cities with wide sweeping streets and parks. There is also a metro system there and we saw lots of churches. There are also lots of security people - they are paranoid! Large groups meeting are banned, our guide needed special dispensation to take large groups around. Also guides often have 'minders' so they don't say the 'wrong' thing. 

Belarus has not exactly embraced democracy, I came to understand the president is pretty much a dicator and by the sounds of it is a bit of a playboy (I seem to remember he arrives at work at about 10 and leaves early afternoon). People are really poorly paid, they are lots of fancy expensive flats being built in the city that its residents could never afford. Belarus seems to be still suffering from years of occupation but hopefully with young people like our tour guide things might change in the future.

At the end of our tour we visited the Island of Tears memorial which is in memory of those lost during the Afghan war. It is built like a little church with four entrances and surrounded by huge figures of weeping women. It's a very moving place, quite eerily quiet.

Later we sat at a local bar and had 80p beers (yay) and bought dodgy souvenirs from dodgier

 guy (and I left my bank card in the cashpoint - bad idea in any country). Before hitting the 

sack, although we were rudely awoken by the local 'girls' ringing all our rooms at 1am offering

 'sex massage'. Nice.

The next day we were heading back in the EU and Poland. Our lunch stop was the town of

 Brest, famous for it's part in WWII. Odd place, inside there are GIANT statues and as you walk 

through the star shaped entrance Soviet type music is blasted at you. Oh, and they had squat 

toilets, not my cup of tea! Really strange place . . .

We continued on our journey and after another fun border crossing we finally made it into the 

Polish capital Warsaw. I'd been to Warsaw already a couple of times but it was nice to be

back in the EU and have some sense of normalcy! Starting with a proper hotel with real

beds! We enjoyed our first night in with pizza and cough syrup (we were all getting sick by this 

point!).

The next day we took a whirlwind city tour where we saw the Euro 2012 stadium, the Chopin

memorial, Warsaw Uprising memorial, Holocaust memorial, Palace of Science and Culture and 

the old town.

One side of the holocaust memorial

Okay, quick Warsaw facts! Pre WWII, Poland had a huge Jewish population and as a result

when the Nazi's invaded they ended up have a huge ghetto where the Jew's were forced to

live and where Jew's from other parts of Europe were forced to go. I won't give you a history 

lesson but I recommend you read the book The Pianist, or watch the film, there is also a book

called 'Forgotten Voices of the Holocaust' which explains it better than I ever can. The ghetto 

was a staging point for sending people to concentration and extermination camps and was

gradually made smaller until it decided it should be 'liquidated'. The people inside bravely fought

back with the primative weapons they had but the place was eventually raised. Most of

the city was in fact destroyed and what is actually the 'old town' now is a post WWII 

reconstruction made from photographs and paintings. The area that was the ghetto is now

full of tower blocks from Soviet times and is a popular place to visit for Jewish people - 

while we were there there was a youth group from Israel visiting.

Whilst in Warsaw I sampled (for the first time) the famour Polish perogies! They are like

little dumplings either baked or fried, yum! I spend the afternoon wandering around and doing 

little shopping before our final group dinner. We then headed back to the hotel to change and

went out for some last night drinks at a local cocktail bar called 'Paprazzi'. I really wanted to stay

up late but my illness was taking it's toll and I had to admit defeat at midnight and hit the sack, 

ready for the long drive back to our starting point, Berlin!

Next time, Ich Bin Eirn Berliner, highlights of Berlin in 12 hours while sick and the joys of 

drunken people walking into your hostel room...

Back in the USSR

Blogger does not like me, keeps deleting what I have written. Hence the time taken to write this - fingers crossed no mishaps today!

Anyway, back to Russia. Our final morning in St Petersburg was at our leisure and we were dropped of at the beautiful church of the spilt blood. It was built in the spot where Alexander II was assassinated (hence the name). It's covered in enamel and gilt both inside and out. Definitely a must see.

We then had a bit of time to hit the local souvenir market (and haggle badly) and a quick lunch before hopping back on the bus for our night stop in Novgorod.

Novgorod was once a really important town, it was actually the capital of Russia if I remember correctly. Now it's not much of a muchness! There is a small kremlin there with some interesting buildings and a church which has some really pretty bells that a guy actually uses a little hammer thing to play. We stayed in a slightly dodgy hotel (nothing new there), had another dodgy dinner and then hit a local bar later for air hockey, conversing with locals and dancing like crazy to dodgy dance music in a room that looked like the back room in a youth club.

The following morning it was an early one for our drive to Moscow. We dropped off in a place called Klim for lunch where we had the choice of McDonalds or KFC for lunch (we were truly getting the Russian experience - see?) and had the fun experience of trying to explain what we wanted - us no Russian/them no English. But I guess we gave them a fun story to tell when they got home that night!

We landed in central Moscow in the early afternoon, slightly cranky and tired after another long ride on Russian roads. We went straight to the Kremlin to meet out tour guide and see our meeting point for the next few days. 

St Basils

Our guide was actually insane I think, lovely, knowledgeable but insane. She talked a lot - I like to think I'm polite and I was interested but I usually had to switch of after 10 mins (she could go on talking about one thing for over an hour). It was a minus point to Moscow and the whole tour to be honest. Our tour manager also used to give way to many facts (and then get important things like times things opened wrong!).

We then went on a tour of the metro - which basically meant getting rushed around at a ridiculous pace, jumping on and off trains and praying we didn't get lost! The Moscow metro is pretty amazing though - tons of artwork, communist insignia and imagery, chandelier and general gorgeousness. We were told while we were there that there is a push going on to remove all of this to move away from the communist past. This would be really sad so I'm glad I got to see it in its current state!

The tour ended at our hotels metro stop and then a not so fun walk in the Moscow heat to our (tiny) rooms. Dinner in the hotel that night which involved walking through a Russian wedding reception (weddings everywhere in Russia!).

The next day was out 'biggie' in Moscow - fitting a ridiculous amount in Contiki style. We started with a trip to the Kremlin which meant we got to stand in a really big queue even though we had tickets, joy! We visited the armoury  museum first which was amazing but unfortunately was not a place you could get away with taking pictures of. It houses thousands of artifacts from the Tsars - amazing clothes, carriages, decorative items, jewels, icons, paintings, silverware and of course some of the original Faberge eggs. A must see in Moscow. (Thankfully we got places with a different tour guide as groups were limited in size - the group who were with our city guide didn't even get all the way around - the woman talked wayyyyyyy to much). We then walked around the grounds a bit and saw the government offices, including the presidents (well the outside of it).

We were free for lunch so went to explore and ended up at 'Chatty Chicked' kebabs - chosen as we assumed we would find ordering easy. Not so much, but it turns out kebab is kebab in many languages! We were then going to visit another church in the city which had great city views but typically it was closed! 

We met up later for a trip to the statue park. This is a place that houses the last remaining communist statues and signs. Most were pulled down when communism fell and a group of people rallied to preserve them for posterity. Unfortunately this (as with the metro) may not last much longer. Russia seems desperate to escape it's communist roots.

Stalin, something wrong with your nose . . .

After the park we headed to the Moscow circus to see some, well, circus stuff! It was pretty fun and what was expected - animals, clowns, acrobats etc. Some of the girls got upset about the animals being whipped - and whilst I don't think they need animals for these shows they looked pretty well cared for in general. If you are overly sensitive about animals I wouldn't go. 

We then headed back to the hotel for an optional trip to the club Pacha. It was a mad rush to get ready but we did it! We had all paid a stupid 120 Euros for entry, a VIP booth and the rest would go on a bar tab (got our own toilet and bouncer which was nice). The idea was good in theory but when there are bottles of vodka on the table people get silly (and greedy). So it just over an hour about 5 bottles of vodka were gone. Our TM noticed that some of us had been sensible and gave us the last bottle to share - ha! And the people who had been stupid earlier ended up getting very messy!

The next morning was a chance to go see Lenin's body in the mausoleum - the alarm went off and my roommate and I exchanged glances and decided to pass. Only 4 hours sleep did not bode well for another busy day!

So after a few more hours sleep we headed into town and attempted to force down a lunch (v hot/hung over/not good) and then I went searching for some souvenirs. We met up with the others later that afternoon and learned that we didn't miss much at the mausoleum and inside St Basil's was no where near as nice as church of the spilt blood. I felt less bad about being lazy :). We then headed to a military museum which is normally only for Russians but our guide had contacts. It was quite cool -lots of planes, missiles and tanks outside (the boys loved it). Inside there was a huge selection of uniforms and display (unfortunately could understand any of the explanations). The best room was what I will call the 'Nazi' room - full of flags and banners the Russians captured and boxes full of thousands of iron crosses. Our guide Galina did explain this room but she waffled so much I stopped listening, otherwise I would tell you more! There was however also the wreckage of a crashed American spy plane in the museum.

Some kind of missiles

We ended the evening with yet another bad meal (as if we were to expect any more!) and heading home for an early night. Two full on days had taken it out of me so it was time to say goodbye to Moscow and Russia and get ready for out 7am (eek) departure for Belarus and its capital Minsk.

Thoughts- not a huge fan of Moscow. Nowhere near the character of St Petersburg and a lot more busy. Glad I have been but if I get the chance to go back to Russia it'll be St P all the way!

So next installment, Who wants to be a Belarussian Millionaire?