It was finally time to leave the relative familiarity of Scandinavia and head into the unknown territory that is Russia. First instructions of the day were to buy lots of water to brush our teeth with etc as the tap water in Russia can be a bit iffy. Some people took that to the extreme and when we made out final stop in Finland I think we had enough water to maintain a small town stacked under the bus!
So we then headed to the border control and were given a slew of instructions - no smiling, certainly no laughing, turn off your phones, hide your valuables . . . scary stuff. The Russians take their border seriously! Thankfully we had a female, blonde bus driver who spoke Russian (yeah we lucked out there) who managed to get us through the border in record time (they wanted to take all out bags off the bus and search them but she managed to get us out of that one). And then we were in!
| First Russian flag! |
Straight away the roads deteriorated and it began to look like, well, you would expect Russia to look! The countryside was mainly trees and reminded me of the backdrop or a wartime move like Defiance or Inglorious Basterds. We stopped briefly in the little town of Vygborg which has changed hands from the Finnish to the Russians numerous times in it's history and has in consequence a slightly European air compared to other Russian cities. Then back on the bus and we headed into beautiful St Petersburg!
So first, a history lesson. St Petersburg was founded in 1703 by the Russian Tsar Peter the Great. It was not in fact named after him but after his favourite saint. Peter the Great was very keen to modernise Russia and he saw the way to do this was to become more western, more European. As such he founded the city of St Petersburg and enlisted architects to build a European style city and this eventually became the capital of Russia and remained so pretty much until the fall of the Tsars with the death of Nicholas III in 1917. The city has an incredible history of decadence and excess with palatial homes built for the rich all over the city (they actually call them 'palaces' but they did not usually house royalty). Then on the other hand there is the sad history of the city, including the 2 year siege during world war two in which more than a million people died. Put plainly, there's a whole load of history here, my kind of place!
We began our visit by checking into our hotel, the originally named 'Hotel St Petersburg' a fabulously retro hotel which looked like it hadn't been decorated for a good 30 years (I'm serious). I tried not to think too much about the peeling wall paper, aged bedspreads and cabin style beds (they were not proper beds, sort of wooden frames attached to the wall, argh wish I had taken photos!). Interesting fact about Russian hotels - they take your passport off you! Yay, so in a country where there is every possibility you may be stopped and asked for ID by the police you are handed a piece of card with your name on it and the hotel name. I guess it is one of those things that is a hangover from communism. I actually expected more things to a bit odd like this but other and having to pay for toilets (which we had to do a fair bit in Scandi), but it really wasn't far removed from any other European city.
Today we also met out local guide, Anna. Okay, Anna was insane and an alcoholic. When we first met her she had been propping up the bar already for a few hours with her signature bloody mary drink and can I say she is an awesome drunk! Anna grew up under communism but became and adult just as it was ending so had a fascinating insight into how things were to live under that regime. One story that springs to mind was families would sometimes wait years to buy a simple piece of furniture, you would join a list and have to wait until you got to the top. Unless of course you knew someone, the black market thrives in a communist economy.
That evening Anna took us on a city tour, showing us some of the sights and giving us an orientation of the city. She also introduced us to our favourite Russian word - champanski!! This is just what the Russians call sparking wine of any kind, not a special drink, but the Russians do drink it with vodka in it. With that, we stopped in one of St Petersburg's beautiful squares and drank champange and vodka out of plastic cups - which was way more fun than it sounds! (On a side note I also learned that adding '-ski' to a word is a way of making a noun into an adjective, so now you know).
From this we headed to an optional dinner in a local restaurant. Well local-ish, as was the way with Contiki it was more of a tourist place and they served up fairly gross looking Beef Stroganof, which I don't like at the best of times. But we also got our favourite champanski and vodka, which I seemed to get the most of on our table, so it was a very merry night in St P!!
The next day we had an early start to get to the Peterhof Palace and Gardens to beat the tourist rush (which was a good thing as as were were leaving it was heaving). Peterhof is called the Russian Versailles due to it's extensive gardens and opulent style. The weather was a but drizzly but that didn't dampen our spirits as we explored the many fountains and gardens; let's just say the Tsars were not afraid of gold leaf. It was one of many occasions in this city where the sheer wealth involved in creating (and maintaining) something blew us away.
The next stop on this whirlwind of a day was to be the memorial to the siege of Leningrad (as St Petersburg was known during the communist days). The monument is built on what I can only describe as a large roundabout which a column and statues rising from the middle and you go underneath and underground to a museum of sorts where there is a video and a selection of artifacts documenting the lives of people during the siege. It's incredibly sad and amazing to believe that anyone actually survived. During the siege the average ration was 200g of bread per person, per day. This was for people who were doing hard physical labour, and not forgetting the harsh Russian winter. In the winter, so many people would die bodies had to be left to freeze on the streets as the ground was so hard they could not dig enough graves to bury them.
| Not the best photo! |
Next we hopped on a canal boat tour of the city - St Petersburg was built around a river called the 'Neva' and canals were created for access across the city so it has a Venice-like feel (okay I've never been to Venice but is is what I would expect Venice to feel like!). As a consequence St Petersburg is also a city of bridges and every night in the summer the bridges all rise to let shipping traffic through (so you need to make sure you are on the right side of the river or it's an expensive taxi ride the long way home!). And it was time for more Champanski! The boat was a nice way to see the city and we also saw our first wedding of the trip - Russian couples flock to the city to get married in the summer because it is so beautiful.
We followed the boat tour for a trip to a souvenir shop that sold Faberge eggs. Faberge was a jewellery company that was commissioned by Nicholas III to create an Easter egg for the Tsarina, the result was so successful they were to create a whole series of eggs (until the fall of the Tsars of course) some of which we were lucky enough to see later in the trip. They are generally enamelled, jewelled and often contain little trinkets hidden inside such as miniature coaches and boats. The shop continued the champanski theme (and vodka and some random liqueur made of prunes or something like that!). I guess they think getting you drunk makes you buy and they were probably right. We were also introduced the the wonderful world of Matryoshka dolls, the traditional stacking dolls that come in every possible size and permutation you could think of.
But the day wasn't over! Next we headed to the Russian folklore show 'Feel Yourself Russian'. Cue cassock dancing, traditional singing and generally fun times. And you guessed it more champanski! (we were beginning to get used to this). I thought that this would have been dull but the dancing and singing and costumes were pretty amazing and gave a glimpse into Russian culture from the pre-communist days.
So the day was over but still so much to see and do, let's leave it there for now and continue another day ;)


